The Elegant Simplicity of Crespelle
Includes recipes for Crespelle, Crespelle alla Fiorentina, and Vegan Béchamel Sauce
The aroma of possibility filled the air in Costigliole d'Asti, a small village situated approximately halfway between Asti and Alba in northern Italy's Piedmont region. Perched on a hillside and dominated by a majestic 13th-century castle, this surprising location houses the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners (ICIF)—where my relationship with crespelle began on a wine-hazed January morning.
This international culinary program was developed and launched in early 1990 to promote Italian food and wine culture globally. Much of the funding came from self-interested corporate sponsors. The curriculum, however, was influenced and developed by local chefs, farmers, wine producers, and the emerging Slow Food Movement, which was still defining its purpose at that time.
I was invited to attend a two-month intensive professional program, which began in January 1999. This unique opportunity became the foundation of my interest in classic Italian recipes — and, of course, enjoying some of Italy’s finest wines.
After a daily immersion in learning Italian ingredients, recipes, wine, food culture, and the language, most of the 15 students gathered at Enoteca Caffè Roma, just a few steps away from the castle entrance. The walls of the Enoteca were filled with bottles of local wine – mostly Barbera D’Asti, Barbera del Monferrato, Barbaresco, Dolcetto, Arneis, and many more I didn’t recognize. Someone in our group would be designated to select a wine from the wall, which we happily put away in rather short order. Often, more rounds followed until we all had consumed more than the recommended amount.
The morning after one such wine evening, I trudged into the modern kitchen deep inside the castle. Fatigue and hazy memories from our unofficial wine-tasting evening dripped from my skin. Sergio, our Chef Instructor, was already in the kitchen. He took his place at the demonstration station and watched stoically as the other workstations became populated with other hungover chefs.
Most of us wanted an espresso and something in front of us to chop. Instead, Sergio patiently described the origins of Crespelle alla Fiorentina. This classic Tuscan dish can be traced back to a time when Florentine chefs were renowned for their sophisticated and elegant culinary approach. Perhaps Catherine de' Medici introduced the idea of crespelle to the French court and inspired the famous French crêpes... Hmm...I became amused by that thought; after all, it wasn’t the first time I had heard an Italian taking credit for a famous European recipe.
With my focus returning to Sergio, I began to understand how crespelle were created as a lighter alternative to pasta dishes. The use of flour, milk, and eggs were combined to create a batter that could be easily poured and swirled into a hot pan to produce a thin pancake. These thin pancakes were often used as a wrap, typically enclosing a savory mix of spinach, ricotta, and grated hard pecorino cheese. Sometimes, these pancakes would be rolled up and sliced to create ribbons of crespelle that looked a lot like pasta Tagliatelle. Over time, crespelle dishes became a signature of Tuscan home cooking.
My interest in crespelle began to show signs of life. I never thought of using crêpes (or crespelle, as I should be referring to them) in any manner other than smearing them with sweet marmalade or Nutella. Savory had a fresh appeal. Ideas began rattling around my head like a pinball. I couldn’t wait to get started, but first, I really needed that espresso.
Ten minutes later, I started mixing the batter ingredients. I whisked the flour and salt in one bowl. In a separate bowl, I mixed the liquid ingredients (at that time, it was eggs, milk, and a touch of extra virgin olive oil). Finally, I poured the liquid mass into the dry ingredients and stirred everything together. Shit...in my haste to get the batter mixed, lumps formed and floated on the surface...and Sergio arrived to check on my work. “You need to put that batter through a strainer.” Of course...but somehow, at the front of my mind, I was wondering if he was really thinking I shouldn’t spend so much time at the Enoteca.
I placed the non-stick pan on the larger back burner, turned on the gas, and adjusted the heat to low. I grabbed the ladle and poured about 120 ml (1/2 cup) of my repaired batter straight into the middle of the pan. Dammit...the pan was too hot, and the batter formed an annoying clump in the center. When I flipped it prematurely, half the crespelle clung stubbornly to the pan.
Of course, Sergio materialized beside me at precisely this moment of failure. I caught the hint of a wry smile as he calmly advised me to lift the pan off the heat for about 20 seconds before adding batter, and to wait until the edges begin to curl upward before attempting to turn it. Simple advice that transformed my next attempts into perfect crespelle—a culinary lesson permanently etched in my memory.
With a renewed sense of purpose, I made a fresh tomato sauce and began the filling by wilting the prepared spinach leaves, grating the cheese, and chopping the prosciutto. I started to have high hopes for this dish – and I was getting hungry.
I was stunned when I removed the sauté pan from the oven after 12 minutes (chefs often bake things like this in sauté pans...and burn their hands when taking the pan out of the oven). This was an elegant-looking cannelloni dish – perhaps the finest I had ever seen. The smell of oregano-infused tomato sauce arrived at my nose first. I began to detect slight notes of nutmeg and melted pecorino. Visually, caramelized points dotted the surface of the tomato sauce. I could see hints of filling pulsating inside the crespelle. Sergio arrived to inspect my work. I can’t recall his exact words, but I know he thought the dish looked nice and the seasoning was good. I was happy...and hungry.
Sometimes, a Chef knows when a recipe turns out to be something worthy — something that needs to be made and shared with friends and loved ones. Crespelle, especially Crespelle alla Fiorentina, is one of those forever recipes.
Frustratingly — or perhaps happily — the rules of forever frequently change and morph into something unexpected. This happened to me a dozen or so years ago; I never dreamed of becoming vegan.
Vegan, of course, meant I had to dump most of the recipe ideas and embrace a life of quinoa, salad, and roasted vegetables (I don’t have anything against any of these three, but it would be boring if those were my only choices). Alternatively, I could dedicate myself to figuring out how to veganize the vast treasure of recipes hidden in my head.
I chose the second option...and veganizing crespelle (or crêpes) became my top priority.
Crespelle require a certain texture. They must remain pliable without breaking, and that calls for an excellent binding agent to replace the egg. My solution evolved over the years. I tried starch-based egg replacers, flax eggs, and silken tofu (that was the worst solution). My latest iteration is a simple gel made from psyllium husk, water, and a small amount of oil. It produces results that mirror those of an egg...without the worry of contracting an illness or overpaying for eggs.
The other elements were simple to veganize. Soy milk functions perfectly well as a substitute for milk, and achieving that unctuous, melted, cheesy flavor turned out to be easier than I thought – a well-seasoned, thick béchamel, easily veganized, worked wonders.
The final result will never be identical to the original...and I am completely okay with that. It just needs to stimulate my senses and remind me that simplicity can be elegant.
Crespelle represent more than just a technique; they're an invitation to explore culinary adaptability. Whether you're seeking a lighter alternative to pasta, preparing for a special gathering, or adapting cherished recipes to new dietary paths, crespelle offer elegant simplicity with endless variations. The basic technique remains consistent while accommodating seasonal ingredients and personal preferences—making it a cornerstone recipe worth mastering.
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Crespelle
This Italian preparation, similar to French crêpes, is often used as a substitute for pasta. Typically, it is formed into a wrapper. Crespelle are also sliced in the same manner as pasta tagliatelle, then tossed with a simple sauce, an excellent and quick alternative to making enriched pasta dough.
Vegan Béchamel Sauce
I use béchamel to bind ingredients, as a versatile sauce, and as a key ingredient in lasagna variations, as well as a topping for gratins – and that’s just a few of the many ways homemade béchamel sauce can be used in the kitchen.
Learning to make a proper béchamel sauce lays the foundation for many sauces, making it a key skill for any cook. It’s also simple to prepare, despite the intimidating aura of French classical cooking that hangs in the air. If you can stir milk with a whisk, you can make a béchamel sauce.
Crespelle alla Fiorentina
My vegan version of Crespelle alla Fiorentina is a picture-perfect, elegant dish that visually embodies everything glorious about Italian cooking: simplicity, fresh ingredients, heartiness, and comfort.
Completing the recipe requires some advanced planning, but most of the elements used are simple to make. The crespelle (essentially, crêpes) can be made hours – or even 1-2 days in advance. The same is true for the béchamel sauce. Once those elements are in place, the filling, forming, and cooking of the crespelle is simple and can be completed in 60-90 minutes.
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This recipe shows you creative brilliance in creating vegan recipes Jack. Your lesson on taking the pan off the heat before pouring in batter is the lesson I needed, thank you Jack.
Well, the crespelle were eaten quicker than created… very yummy, thank you Jack.