The Schupfnudeln Tales
What this simple recipe taught me about life in a professional kitchen and why it ultimately doesn’t matter who eats it as long as it’s pleasurable (and how to pronounce ‘schupf’ in German).
When I arrived in Switzerland in 1996, I immediately set out to learn German and try to find a restaurant that would allow me to work 6 months as an apprentice. Both of these undertakings were more challenging than I thought.
I enrolled in an intensive German course for 4 months. And by intensive, I mean 5 days per week and 4 hours per day in class...plus the added homework. This would be the best way to pick up the language as quickly as possible, making my time in Zürich much easier.
It was a good strategy...or so I thought.
I soon realized that the German language is filled with pitfalls...and, as it turned out, no one really speaks classical German – even in Germany. And in Switzerland...well, Swiss-German is a different language altogether and impossible for a novice “German” speaker like I was to understand. Learning German felt pointless...but it was still necessary to land an internship.
I put together an introductory letter in German with the help of Silvia (now my wife) and sent it to the top 30 restaurants in the Zürich region. I received about 15 rejection letters within a week, and 14 went unanswered. I also received one phone call from the number one target on my list. He invited me to his restaurant for an interview.
I was nervous before that interview. My German was improving, but I was nowhere close to proficiently handling an interview. Plus, I didn’t know if this Swiss Chef would speak German or Swiss German to me. My answer came quickly. Over an espresso, Chef Peter Brunner simply said, “I’ll speak German, and you can speak English.” Phew...what a relief. The interview went well, and I was invited to spend 2 days working in the kitchen to see if I liked it...and probably more importantly, if his team wanted me.
On my first day in the kitchen, the Sous Chef asked me to go quickly to the cellar and grab die kiste mit zucchetti (the small crate of zucchini). The words came to me quickly. I was confident I understood his French-accented Swiss-German and was eager to do my best. But instead of zucchetti, I returned with a crate of spaghetti...and the kitchen staff burst into laughter that I still hear today.
It was an embarrassing moment...but also a moment of clarity; working in a foreign language was not going to be simple...and the staff in a professional kitchen could be as cruel as how a foreign 12-year-old walking into a new school on day one might be treated (also true, but another story for another time).
I kept a low profile and worked hard for several months without taking a break. I was determined to learn as much as possible despite the obvious language challenges and constant ribbing I endured from the staff (mostly related to my American accent). But I persisted and moved from the Garde Manger station to Entremetier. I was now responsible for the starches and vegetables on the plates...and my first lesson came to me on day one in my new role – make Schupfnudeln (it should be evident that my pronunciation of that word brought more joy to the kitchen – the combination of s-c-h-u-p-f is difficult for an English-speaker to pronounce).
Of course, I had no idea what Schupfnudeln were. But after looking at the recipe, I was relieved to discover they are similar to gnocchi...and that was a recipe I was comfortable making after learning how while working in Italy. The only difference, as far as I could see, was how they were shaped; schupfnudeln are finger-shaped dumplings, a shape created by rubbing the dough quickly between both hands to form a finger shape with pointed ends.
What’s in a Name?
Schupf = from the verb 'schupfen'. Schupfen is a pushing/rolling/flattening motion.
Nudeln = Noodles
My first attempt was decent enough, but the process took me far too long. And that meant no break between lunch and dinner service. Luckily, that Tuesday night was relatively slow, so I had a chance to work at a slower pace during service...and it looked like I would have enough Schupfnudeln to last me through tomorrow’s lunch service...until the last ticket came in – shit, 8 orders were called out – all with schupfnudeln.
Schupfnudeln can be poached ahead of time, cooled, coated with fat, and refrigerated for about 2 days. Once an order was called, I needed to heat a pan on the stove, pop a decent amount of clarified butter into the hot pan, and add the schupfnudeln. They are cooked rapidly until their exterior takes on a golden color...and they taste marvelous – a buttery, crispy exterior and a soft potato interior with hints of nutmeg and ground coriander.
So, when the order was called, I went to work. Four pans went onto the stovetop, the fat went into the pans, and the schupfnudeln followed. I was in a rhythm and feeling good. And then the Sous Chef called out that the order was canceled...that was it – the service ended, and I just stared at the Schupfnudeln on the stovetop. Seconds later, the entire kitchen staff crowded around the stovetop – some even drinking a beer...and I watched as they devoured the Schupfnudeln in seconds.
I came in early the next day to get a jump on my prep...I had 6 kilos of potatoes to cook and turn into beautifully shaped Schupfnudeln, which I did and completed before lunch service...but just before service. Lunch and dinner went well, but I was worried about my supply of Schupfnudeln for dinner service. So, once again, I passed on my afternoon break and made another round of Schupfnudeln. At least I would have enough for tomorrow’s lunch, I thought...until that last ticket was once again called. Yep...more Schupfnudeln...and yep, another canceled order...and yep, happy chefs in the kitchen inhaling my Schupfnudeln.
My endless Schupfnudeln prep continued relentlessly for one entire month. I don’t know how often I made that recipe...but I’m sure half of my prep went into pleasing a willing staff. Did I mention already that a professional kitchen could be cruel?
Interestingly, I never tired of making Schupfnudeln. Was I irritated? Absolutely...but I still enjoyed rubbing those pieces of potato dumplings between my hands to try and form a perfect finger shape with slightly tapered ends. I challenged myself to work faster without compromising on quality. I carefully poached the dumplings, allowing them to float on the gently bubbling surface for about 2 minutes before I removed them. It’s a simple recipe...especially for a high-end restaurant. It requires a bit of time, but after frying them slightly to create that lovely exterior, I knew they were tasty and addictive. I knew it didn’t matter if it was a paying customer or my colleagues who got so much pleasure in eating them...because, in the end, it doesn’t really matter (Linkin Park quotes work well in food writing)...and at any rate, I like cooking so I can share the pleasure of good eating with others.
Making Schupfnudeln at Home
I make Schupfnudeln at home about 3 or 4 times per year. These days, I work with my vegan variation of the original recipe I made daily – sometimes twice daily. I’ve even created variations that work exceptionally well, like incorporating a dry pumpkin purée into the potatoes to make Pumpkin Schupfnudeln – a massive hit during the holidays.
I usually serve Schupfnudeln with shredded cabbage or roasted cabbage...and I always include a bit of my rose hip sauce that has just enough acid in it to cut through the fatty sensation of the Schupfnudeln. And yes...I always make a double portion because thieves are in the kitchen!
Be sure to read Kitchen Secrets for Tasty Cabbage
The following is a rundown of the critical elements and techniques for making perfect Schupfnudeln at home.
The Potatoes
Selecting the right potato for this recipe is essential. Choose a starchy variety, and make sure it is well-cooked. If you live in the US, select Brown Russets or King Edward varieties. UK readers will want to choose Russet, Vivaldi, Marabel, or King Edward varieties. Australians should try to use Sebago, Bintje, or Pontiac varieties.
Be sure to read How to Make a Perfect Vegan Potato Purée
A Potato Ricer...and Gentle Hands
I puree my potatoes through a potato ricer before adding them to a bowl. If you don’t own a potato ricer, you can use a masher, but the purée may have a few lumps. You may see professional cooks on TV shows forcing potato puree through a strainer. I don’t recommend this because you must add a lot of liquid and fat to the strained potatoes to avoid a gluey texture. It’s also not a good idea to whip strained potato puree. Hand blenders, stand blenders, and food processors don’t work well with starchy varieties unless you are partial to gluey textures.
The Flour (and Seasoning)
I use a ratio of 25% flour to potato, but I never add all the flour at once. Work with about 2/3 first, make a small test with the dough, and adjust the quantities as necessary. All-purpose flour works the best for this recipe. I have not tried any gluten-free flour or whole wheat flour in making schupfnudeln. Theoretically, GF or whole wheat flour should work fine – the schupfnudeln may become a bit heavy, so adjustments are generally necessary.
I always incorporate freshly ground nutmeg and ground coriander into the purée. I tend to over-season slightly because the flour and cooking process dull the spice effect. Add enough freshly grated nutmeg by stopping when your nose is filled with the aromas. I do the same with coriander, but instead of grating the seeds, I put them through a pepper grinder.
Schupfnudeln should have a mild leavening, which is created by the addition of baking powder.
Rolling and Portioning
Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface and roll it into a log shape that is about 5 cm (2 inches) in diameter. Cut the log into 1 cm (1/2 inch) thick pieces. Working with lightly floured hands, roll each piece of dough quickly between both hands to form small noodle-like pieces with tapered ends.
Cooking and Cooling...and Cooking Again.
Bring a large, wide pot of water to a gentle simmer. Add about 1 teaspoon of salt for each liter (quart) of water and mix well to dissolve the salt. Maintain a gentle simmer – that is, just a few bubbles rising to the water’s surface, rather than a rapid boil. Work in batches to cook the schupfnudeln, adding just enough to cover the base of the pot. Gently stir the water so the schupfnudeln don’t stick on the bottom of the pot. Cook for 7-8 minutes – the schupfnudeln will rise to the surface, but they should continue to poach on the surface for 2 minutes. Remove the cooked schupfnudeln and place them on a lightly oiled tray. Enjoy them immediately or cool them completely and finish by sautéing them in oil until slightly golden.
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Need more Inspiration…How about these classic potato recipes – made vegan?
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Great story, Jack. These dumplings remind me so much of the Raviole della Valle Varaita that I wrote about last year. They come from Piemonte, so not too far from Switzerland, and they have that same torpedo shape. There is cheese (a local tomino) in the dough but no leavening, and they are served pretty much drowned in butter. I love the idea of sautéeing them a bit after boiling. I'm so curious about the rose hip sauce. Is that a typical pairing for schupfnudeln?
Reading your description of how you came to know schupfnudeln was DELIGHTFUL. I'm rarely willing to take the time needed to make something like that by hand, but I gotta say, only you could tempt me into it. Thanks, Jack!