The Art of Listening to Risotto
When a Michelin-starred chef taught me that risotto speaks, he changed how I cook forever.
I still hear Angelo's baritone voice echoing in my head. "Più sale," he bellows as if his spirit is destined to guide me every time I make risotto.
That moment remains etched in my memory, clear as yesterday. The comical nature of a younger version of myself, nervously preparing risotto for the first time in Angelo's Michelin-starred restaurant, makes me smile. How did he know the risotto I was preparing needed more salt -- he was literally on the other side of the kitchen.
I could smell it; he told me after lunch service. Risotto is made with all of our senses. You must do more than see it and taste it. You must listen to the risotto as it cooks; it will always tell you what it needs. You have to smell the air and pick up its clues. A well-seasoned risotto smells like satisfaction -- it pulls you into the dish like a magnet. A risotto needing more salt sounds different. It screams. It is not harmonious. It is like two dogs barking at each other.
Angelo felt bigger than life in that moment. He was a Roman philosopher in chef’s whites. He transformed cooking risotto into something poetic. It became more than a rice dish; it was nourishment, flavor, and total human satisfaction waiting to be patiently coaxed into existence.
Of course, Angelo could have been taking advantage of my naiveté, realizing all young chefs tend to under-season their first risotto.
Nevertheless, I like the idea of a risotto that knows how to speak to me, so I listen. I try to hear the rice as it whimpers and then cries out for more liquid. I try to pick up the scent of satisfaction. I try to watch the broth slowly thicken as the rice kernels begin to release their starch. I feel the gentle resistance increasing as I stir the rice to keep it from sticking to the bottom of the pan. I try to taste the air to see if the salt is right.
The entire 20-minute process is meditative and therapeutic. I witness the transformation of rice and broth into creamy nourishment. And when I close my eyes, I can hear Angelo, "Bravo - è un vero e proprio risotto."
While Angelo's poetic approach to risotto-making shaped my philosophy in the kitchen, years of crafting vegan versions have taught me some practical wisdom worth sharing:
Italian risotto is made with medium-grain specialty rice varieties rich in starch. The entire idea of risotto is to cook the rice in a flavorsome broth while allowing the starch from the rice to release slowly.
The cooking liquid is added to the rice in small amounts in an open pan over medium-high heat. This causes much of the moisture to evaporate, meaning over time, the cooking liquid's flavor concentrates in the dish and thickens into a creamy consistency as the starch is released from the rice. This is the secret of making a good risotto...and it requires a healthy dose of patience.
Creating a vegan risotto follows the same guidelines as any other risotto dish.
Foundations
Different risotto rice varieties yield different results: Arborio cooks in about 17-19 minutes and has the most starch. Carnaroli cooks for 15-17 minutes and has moderate starch. Vialone Nano cooks the quickest --13-15 minutes but has the least starch, so the finished risotto won't be as creamy.
Make sure to use a flavorful broth for any risotto. Try to flavor the broth to highlight the main ingredient. For example, when making a mushroom broth, use rehydrated dried mushrooms and strain the liquid carefully into your vegetable broth. Use the rehydrated mushrooms later and combine them with cooked mushrooms.
Use a very acidic white wine for risotto. My usual choice is an Alsatian Riesling, although German varieties work just as well. Italian Sauvignon Blanc or Vermentino are other whites to consider.
Technique
I add uncooked main ingredients to the rice after the wine has been added and just before adding the first round of stock. This ensures enough time to thoroughly cook the ingredients without overcooking the rice. You can also cook the main ingredients separately and add them to the risotto about 8-10 minutes into the cooking process.
Avoid constantly stirring the rice while cooking over medium-high heat. A quick stir or mix is fine after each addition of the broth. This prevents the rice from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Constant stirring creates too much movement of the rice and causes the rice to break or separate easily because the starch expands too fast.
I add up to 1 tablespoon of finely ground golden flax seeds to 6 tablespoons of nutritional yeast to create an extra creamy risotto. Be sure to leave more liquid in the rice if using this method because the ground flaxseeds thicken the liquid.
Always rest the finished risotto about 10 minutes before serving it -- the best flavor comes out when the rice has cooled, and the starchy elements become creamy and slightly thicker. Don't worry if the risotto becomes too thick at this point -- just add some more broth to the rice and gently mix to create the right consistency.
Risotto is a wonderfully versatile dish to learn how to make. It is comforting, meditative, and perfectly suited to any season. It is a dish worthy of sharing...or simply enjoying whenever you need to regain a bit of strength.
And if you listen closely enough, maybe you will also hear Angelo's baritone voice telling you, "Più sale," because even vegan adaptations like my suggestions can make the most traditional Italian chef nod in appreciation, recognizing the soul of the dish remains intact.
Basic Saffron Risotto
This is my base recipe for making any risotto. Various ingredients can be added to the risotto, like cubed butternut squash, mushrooms, black kale, etc., to create a unique offering. The saffron is not necessary for every risotto. Leave it out if you do not want the added flavor and coloring.
The time to prepare this dish varies depending on the type of risotto rice used and the time necessary to cook any ingredients separately. Basic risotto comes together in about 25 minutes - 5 minutes for aromatics and 14-19 minutes for the rice itself.
Risotto with Cima di Rapa
Cima di rapa, or broccoli raab, is a tricky ingredient. Its bitterness might be challenging for some, but don’t dismiss this healthy member of the turnip family too quickly… especially when making a risotto.
Risotto preparations are a natural for cima di rapa. The creaminess of the starches released by the rice works with the added fat from the extra virgin olive oil to coat the mouth. A punch of acid from the white wine and a nice dose of salt form the other elements that complement the bitter notes of cima di rapa. The result? A well-balanced risotto bursting with different taste sensations.
Roasted Mushroom Risotto
Taking the time to make a mushroom broth from reconstituted dried mushrooms and roasting fresh mushrooms seems like a lot of work for such a humble dish. However, the steps are simple and can be prepared a day or two in advance, leaving only a simple half-hour project of making the risotto.
Most mushroom varieties can be used for this recipe, ranging from brown chestnut mushrooms to freshly foraged porcini mushrooms. I make a mixture of mushrooms I can find when the urge for a mushroom risotto strikes me because the different flavors and textures add another layer of interest and satisfaction.
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What is your favorite risotto?
Like a trusted friend, each risotto tells its own story. Some speak of family traditions, others of culinary adventures, and a few – like mine – carry the echoes of mentors who shaped our path in the kitchen.
What's your risotto story? Whether it's a cherished recipe or a bold experiment, I'd love to hear how this humble dish speaks to you.
Please feel free to share your thoughts in the comments below – I'd love to hear about your experiences!
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Love this. What a fab mentor you had.
If I'm making a risotto with veg (like squash or asparagus), I like to make a separate puree with some of the veg (and nutritional yeast), and then stir that in at the end. Adds even more creaminess, without the need for loads of butter and cheese. And I NEVER thought I'd say that before going vegan! I was all about the butter and cheese.
Good tips, Jack. I hadn’t heard the one about letting risotto sit for 10 minutes, though this is exactly what I was taught to do when making Armenian pilaf (taught to me by an Armenian friend).